Archive for ‘Soap Ingredients’

September 4th, 2011

All Natural Beer Soap

It’s September.

School has started.

To me, that means it’s fall. Even though I know the real Autumnal Equinox is not until September 23rd, it might as well be fall now.

I look forward to so many things in the fall. Apple picking followed by apple pie making. Trips to the pumpkin patch. Outings to the park, or to Cunningham Falls. My family and I love to hike through the woods and enjoy the ever-changing leaves. We’ve enjoyed these things for years.

But, in the last couple years, I’ve also started to look forward to one more fall activity. Making beer soap.

I’m not much of a beer drinker. I’ve had many. I’ve liked few. I’m definitely not someone to waste a good beer on, because I don’t appreciate the difference. But I do enjoy beer in other ways. It makes great batter for onion rings. It lends an earthy, cozy taste to a loaf of quick bread. And, it makes amazing soap. The beer soap I make in the fall is scented with an autumnal blend of clove, cinnamon and ginger, and has a touch of wheat germ for exfoliating goodness.

It’s just plain yummy, in a non-edible way, of course! I’ll be making beer soap all week- and it’ll be ready just in time for the actual start of fall.

 

 

June 16th, 2011

Cost of Wholesale Soap Making Supplies

When you get used to something, it’s hard to give it up.

My kids have a great little book called “Froggy Fable.” It tells the story of a frog, who, accustomed to his little froggy cave on the banks of a beautiful river, starts to experience changes that he doesn’t like. A family of beavers moves in and cuts down many beautiful trees. A family of birds moves in and disturb the quiet with their squawking. The frog is miserable, and unsure of what to do about any of it, when suddenly, his little cave is invaded by a child who scoops him up in a mason jar, straps him to the back of a bike, and takes him far away.  Along the ride, the jar bounces off of the bike, and the frog finds himself in a strange new place. He’s not happy at all. He’s scared, and alone, and everything is unfamiliar. He longs for the comfort of home, even though it had become different from what he had always known. Of course, the frog finds his way back home, and realizes that when things change,  it may take some getting used to, but you just might find that the changes aren’t that bad after all.

I’m not there yet.

My favorite wholesale soap making supplies company recently told me they would no longer offer me a discount for picking up my orders. About a year ago, they announced Free Shipping on Everything! Sort of. They adjusted some of their prices, and added shipping costs to all of their products, except essential oils and fragrances. By picking up my orders, they gave me a nice discount, 25% off everything. This gave me pretty good pricing on most things, and an extra 25% off on essential oils. That was a deal.

To say it was convenient to pick up my soap making supplies is a misstatement. They are 5 hours away from my home. But, they are en-route to my out-of-state family, so a visit home, meant an opportunity to pick up soap supplies.

Now, without that discount, I’m stuck paying for shipping that I really don’t need, and I’m no longer getting essential oils at such a low price. They offer a “lowest price guarantee” but they have made their stipulations so stringent, it seems intentional that they didn’t intend on approving any of the price match requests. For example, if I find an essential oil for less elsewhere, it must be identical to theirs. If I want to price match their 40/42 lavender essential oil, the competitor’s oils must be labeled “Certified 100% Pure” on the label, or they will not price match. Their oil is produced and packaged specifically for them. Other companies do not label 40/42 lavender 100% pure because it is not pure. It is a standardized blend of lavender oils. The fact that it is a blend, means it is not ‘PURE’.  But, their supplier “certifies” their 40/42 product as “pure.” Price matching essential oils will be impossible.

So, I’m in a state of muddled mess right now. Do I continue to order from them? My froggy story compels me to. Afterall, I have always enjoyed the relationship I have had with the company. They are friendly, and they have almost everything I need. I just feel like the prices jumped up 25%.

What’s a girl to do? I was going to write a scathing blog about them- but then I decided to get off my proverbial soap box, and just deal with the fact that things change. I can’t prevent it. I’ll keeping looking for better priced ingredients. But for now, I guess I’ll  just accept the changes. Afterall, I need supplies.

It’s time to make soap.

March 11th, 2011

Spotlight! on Clary Sage Essential Oil

We’ve recently added a new natural soap to our handcrafted bar soap selections at The Natural Bar Soap Company!

For those well versed in essential oils and aromatherapy, our Clary Sage & Lavender Soap will sound familiar. But, for those of you who appreciate natural soap, but are less knowledgeable about particular scents and oils, Clary Sage may cause confusion.

Contrary to what its name suggests, Clary Sage should not be confused with Common Sage. Both are members of the genus Salvia, the largest group of plants in the Lamiaceae (mint) family, and both are often grown ornamentally. Common Sage, however, is widely grown for culinary uses, while Clary Sage is grown for the perfume and essential oil industry. The scents are quite different, in fact.

Clary Sage has a beautifully herbaceous, sweet, flowery scent. Some people also characterize it as “nutty.” It blends well with lavender and citrus oils, as well as bergamot, cedarwood, ylang ylang and florals such as geranium and jasmine.

Clary Sage is officially named “Salvia Sclarea” from the Latin “claris,” or clear. It is commonly known as Clear Eye, a name found in Nicholas Culpepper’s 1653 manual “Complete Herbal,” most likely a reference to the mucilaginous coating of Clary Sage’s seeds, and their ability to remove foreign matter from the eyes.

Clary Sage is a beneficial woman’s herb and exhibits estrogen-like properties. For this reason, it is often recommended for easing menopausal symptoms such as hot flashes, as well as easing menstrual discomforts such as cramping.

Clary Sage has been used to clear skin blemishes, and is helpful in controlling excess sebum (oil secreted from the skin’s sebaceous glands).

Clary Sage is purported to lift moods and lessen anxiety and nervous tension. It has mild anti-spasmodic properties, and is useful as a digestive aid. Clary Sage is known to induce feelings of exhilaration and can intensify the effects of alcohol. It has been used as an ingredient in beer making as a replacement for hops, and also as a wine-making ingredient, due to its Muscat-like aroma and flavor.

Our new Clary Sage and Lavender Soap is made with our new Unruly Sweet Almond Shea soap batter, rich in sweet almond oil, shea butter and olive oil. We add pure Clary Sage essential oil with Lavender essential oil to produce our lovely, herbaceous floral scented natural bar soap. The addition of lavender buds lends a bit of exfoliating power to this super-conditioning, mild bar of natural soap. Just in time for spring, we think our new Clary Sage and Lavender bar soap will awaken your senses, lift your mood and be the lusciously lathering, bubbly bar of goodness you’ve come to expect from The Natural Bar Soap Company.

Be sure to friend us on Facebook, and be among the first to see our new soaps, shows and soapy fun! You can also Follow us on Twitter!

:)

December 27th, 2010

Spotlight! on Neroli Essential Oil

One of the best selling soaps here at The Natural Bar Soap Company is Chamomile Neroli. This pale green colored all natural bar soap is speckled with dried chamomile blossoms and has an enticingly sweet, herbal scent. It is softly calming and refreshing, floral without being “flowery,” and grounded. Most people are familiar with chamomile- it has been used for centuries to make tea and medicinal tinctures. But, not many people are as familiar with Neroli.

Just what is Neroli?

Neroli is the name given to the essential oil extracted from the flower of the bitter orange tree, Citrus aurantium. Neroli has a soft, sweet, citrussy floral scent, with a bit of exotic spice thrown in. Neroli essential oil is used as a top or middle note in many perfumes. Wikipedia makes reference to the princess of Nerola, Italy, Anne Marie Orsini, in the 17th century, popularizing the oil’s use as a fragrance, and suggests that the name “Neroli” is derived from that of the city.

Neroli Essential Oil has a history of being used to treat menstrual cramps and insomnia. It is also said to have a calming effect on the nervous system, and is one of the most often used aromatherapy oils for treating anxiety and depression brought on by stress and anxiety.  Neroli essential oil is highly regarded as a skin rejuvenator for mature skin, as it aids in cell regeneration. It is often suggested as a soothing oil for dry and/or sensitive skin, and also as a treatment for digestive disorders. Neroli essential oil has antispasmodic, as well as antiseptic properties. It is not known to be photo-sensitizing.

Due to the fragile nature of bitter orange blossoms, they must be hand picked, and water extraction, rather than steam distillation, is most often used to obtain the essential oil. It takes approximately one ton of flower material to product a quart of neroli essential oil. For these reasons, Neroli essential oil tends to be a higher priced essential oil. Fortunately, it doesn’t take very much of this lovely ingredient to lend a beautiful scent to a bar of soap! Neroli essential oil blends nicely with lavender, chamomile, sandalwood and other floral scents.

Try a bar of Chamomile Neroli in your next shower!

December 27th, 2010

New Feature: Spotlight!

I am excited that so many of you are seeking out natural ingredients and natural products, and am delighted that 2010 allowed me to share our 38 varieties of natural soap with you. I’m sure you’ll agree that natural ingredients make not only beautiful soaps, but high quality soaps, as well.

For 2011, I thought I would present a new feature on our blog called “Spotlight!” In these posts, I hope to introduce you to new ingredients, or shed some new light on old ones in an effort to share knowledge about the natural things that make our soaps so wonderful. I hope you enjoy this new feature, and that it encourages you to try a few new soap “flavors” from our 2011 selections.

Happy New Year!

October 11th, 2010

Natural Soap – Can it Be Made With Fragrance Oil?

Lately, I’ve been researching the word “natural.” At first glance, it seems like such a simple term, but dive in a little bit and you’ll begin to understand the confusion that arises from its use, and even from the lack of its use.

Let’s start with one very often misunderstood and often unknown fact:

The FDA does not regulate the term Natural, (with one tiny exception).

Unlike “organic,” which carries with it legal requirements of certification and such, the FDA, as recently as 2008, has stated that there are far more pressing issues to take up than that of looking into the potential regulation of “natural.” Therefore, all of those sites that attempt to tell you the FDA only allows plant or animal-derived ingredients to be called “natural,” are just plain wrong. Worse, they write about and spread their misinformation on their blogs and websites, causing even more confusion, and leading  thousands to believe that people using the term “natural” are being dishonest. Oh- what’s a soapcrafter to do?

With the absence of regulation, it remains up to the individual soap crafter to decide what to call their product. Arguably, since soap does not exist in nature, it is not truly “all natural.” However, when made with natural ingredients, I believe most people understand the term “Natural Soap” quite clearly. Regulation really shouldn’t be needed to explain that when natural ingredients (i.e., those that occur in nature, as opposed to being formulated from synthetic ingredients in laboratories) are used to create a product, it is “natural.”

Another hot topic in the “natural” realm is the issue of scent and which ingredients should be used to impart it to natural soap. Those who believe only essential oils can be used in natural soap occupy one side of the arena, while those who don’t object to fragrance oils in their soaps occupy the other. True, essential oils are about as natural as scent gets. Extracted by solvents, pressed or steam distilled, essential oils are truly the natural oil of a given plant. And, fragrance oils- well, they’re synthetic compounds, made out of chemicals with long, difficult-to-pronounce names,  that often irritate skin and aggravate asthma.

Right?

Not so fast. While it is true that “fragrance oil” is generally understood to refer to a synthetic fragrance with little to no natural component in its formula, there is actually a THIRD category of scents available to the soapcrafter which goes by the same name. These are the natural fragrance oils, and they are made with naturally occurring aromatics, called “isolates.” These include resins (for example, balsam and myrhh), absolutes (jasmine, narcissus), and often, even blends of essential oils. Many natural fragrance oils are available on the internet, and certification of their ingredients can be obtained.

The difficulty comes in the labeling of such ingredients. Unfortunately, FDA  regulations have really done a disservice to handcrafted soap makers in this important regard. The word “natural” is not allowed on an ingredient list, unless used as an adjective for the word “flavoring.” This means that soapers are limited to either listing specific essential oils, or the generic term “fragrance.” Therefore, natural fragrance oils, which are not simply essential oils, must be listed as “fragrance” without benefit of the modifier, “natural.” This leads customers reading ingredient lists to assume that these naturally fragranced soaps are scented with synthetic fragrance oil.

It is not likely that many customers will ask the soapcrafter about the source of the “fragrance oil.” At best, a soapmaker can put an explanation on their soaps’ labels, or hope to get to engage in conversation with their potential customers. It’s really a shame, though, that because of regulation, scent ingredients that are as natural as any others in a bar of natural soap must masquerade as “fragrance,” subject to the same miserable disdain so often inflicted upon their identically labeled synthetic counterparts.

If the FDA would simply allow “natural” as an adjective for flavorings, as well as for scents, this would clear up the confusion. Natural soapcrafters wouldn’t have to defend their choice of natural scents, and soap buyers could trust that what they’re buying, is as natural as the maker asserts it to be.

October 6th, 2010

Top 10 Soap Ingredients to Avoid…

…if you want real, made-from-scratch, natural soap.

Natural Soap

Natural Soap

One of the easiest ways to know if the soap you’re buying is handmade from scratch, or simply hand formed or “melted and poured,” is to take a look at the ingredient list.

Unfortunately, many handcrafted soaps sold on the internet do not have such a list posted for potential users to read. Granted, if the soap is intended ONLY for cleansing, and makes no other claim but to clean, it does not require an ingredient list under current federal law.

However, many many websites are offering soaps they claim will  MOISTURIZE and/or CONDITION the skin, and even help ACNE! Under FDA regulations, these soaps MUST include ingredient lists due to the claims they make.

Perhaps the makers of these unlabeled soaps just don’t want you to know that they’re “handcrafting” their soaps using premade soap bases. Here are some of the common ingredients found in premade bases, that would not ordinarily be found on the ingredient list of a “from scratch” natural bar of handmade soap.

10. Sorbitan Oleate

9. Propylene Glycol

8. Sodium Laureth Sulfate

7. Sodium Stearate

6. Sodium Myristate

5. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

4. Triethanolamine

3. Sorbitol

2. Glycerin

1. FD&C dyes and lakes

10. Sorbitan Oleate- an emulsifier and hardener used to stabilize oils. Not necessary in a made-from-scratch bar of natural soap! Properly made-from-scratch natural soaps are stable mixtures of oil and water. It isn’t necessary to add additional emulsifying agents to handmade natural soap.

9. Propylene Glycol- a humectant, emulsifier and moisturizer. With the plethora of moisturizing oils available to the made-from-scratch soap crafter, a lab-isolated ingredient like this isn’t necessary. Shea butter, which is rich in vitamins, is wonderfully moisturizing. And olive oil, perhaps one of the most widely used oils in soap making is often chosen for its conditioning properties. As far as emulsifiers, read number 8! As for humectants, keep on reading!

8. Sodium Laureth Sulfate- i.e. Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate, is a DETERGENT and foaming agent that is absolutely unnecessary in a bar of made-from-scratch natural soap. Detergents are “ANTI-SOAPS.”  Many are harsh and stripping, and very cheap to produce. Instead of resorting to SLES as a foaming agent, why not try some good-ol’ natural castor oil, or even sugar? These two ingredients will cause some crazy bubbles in a bar of natural soap, with no risk of stripping or harshness.

7. Sodium Stearate- used particularly to harden soaps made with vegetable oil. Sodium stearate is the sodium salt of stearic acid (it’s created when the lye solution reacts with stearic acid). However, palm oil, lard, cocoa butter, and many other natural ingredients naturally contain stearic acid. They can create varying degrees of hardness in a bar of made-from-scratch natural soap. If a natural soapcrafter wants to create harder bars, they can change their formula to include oils that will create that quality, or alter the %’s used in their formula. It is quite simple to increase hardness without using an isolated chemical.

6. Sodium Myristate- an emulsifier, hardener and surfactant; the sodium salt of myristic acid, created when lye reacts with myristic acid. Coconut oil and palm oil are two great sources of myristic acid. True artisans use these “complete” vegetable oils rather than isolated compounds derived from them, to create their natural soaps. When seen on an ingredient label, Sodium Myristate is a good indication that a pre-made base was used. Natural, handcrafted, made-from-scratch soap does not need lab-isolated ingredients to create basic qualities such as hardness, that are generally expected in a bar of soap.

5. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate- a surfactant, makes water “wetter” so dirt can wash away. Hmmm. I bet handcrafted, made-from-scratch natural soap does that, too. Soap’s main role in this universe is to act as a surfactant, and it does this quite effectively. Each end of a soap molecule has a specific function; the “head” bonds with water, the “tail” bonds with dirt. The two ends work together to lift and carry dirt away. Artisan soap crafters who start from scratch don’t use sodium coco-anything as an isolated ingredient in their bar soap batters.

4. Triethanolamine- an emulsifier, and a surfactant. A strong base with a pH of 10. Often used to balance the pH of cosmetic products.  As explained in #3, soap itself is a surfactant- it lifts grime, attaches to it, and allows it to be rinsed away with water. Natural, handcrafted, made-from-scratch soap does not need lab-isolated “emu’s” (emulsifiers) and “serfs” (surfactants) unless they are real, furry-but-dirty Emu’s, and sweaty, overworked Serfs!! Sorry– couldn’t resist.

3. Sorbitol- a sugar alcohol. Used as a humectant and thickener in premade soap bases. From-Scratch Natural soap contains loads of glycerin, which forms naturally during the soapmaking process. It is one of nature’s most wonderful humectants. Glycerin is capable of attracting water to itself, and hydrating skin. Rich, naturally creamy and thick bar soap made with natural ingredients, does not need additional thickeners or humectants.

2. Glycerin- a substance naturally produced in the soapmaking process. While there may be instances when a soapcrafter would want to add additional glycerin into their bar of soap, it would be quite uncommon. More often than not, the word “Glycerin” on an ingredient list indicates the soap was created from a pre-made base. Natural, handcrafted, made-from-scratch soap does not need additional glycerin throw in.

1.FD&C dyes and lakes- artificial agents used to impart color to soap, but totally unnecessary in a beautiful, naturally colored bar of soap. Nature’s pantry provides a rich assortment of herbs, flowers, roots, bark and minerals that can produce a beautiful spectrum of all natural color. I know- I know- by now, you’re got this sentence down: “Natural, handcrafted, made-from-scratch soap does not need” artificial colorants.

natural soap

natural soap

For really great, all natural, MADE FROM SCRATCH soap, visit my site! Soap makes great gifts- and is the best gift to give to ensure your friends are clean and pleasant to be with! As unfair as it may be, you are judged by the company you keep!

September 18th, 2010

Beer Soap

Beer is great for the skin, and makes a beautiful fall-ish looking bar of natural soap! The color is warm and cozy, the scent- not so much like beer, really. But, I spiked mine with a bit of patchouli, cinnamon and clove essential oils for a warm, earthy scent. Mmm… Now I’m ready for harvest festivals, a bit cooler temperatures at the craft shows, and a warm apple pie baking in the oven. Life doesn’t get much better than  this.

Here’s my “Drunken Punkin’ Beer Soap” at Pour:

Beer Soap at Pour

Beer Soap at Pour

And here’s the final product, two weeks after the pour. Notice how the color has  developed away from the orange tone at pour, to a warm brown instead. Ahh- the unpredictability of natural ingredients!

Beer Soap

Beer Soap

Drunken Punkin’ Beer Soap and a second variety, Brown Ale Beer Soap, are available at our soapstore, http://barsoapnatural.com.

Happy Fall, soap lovers!

August 31st, 2010

FDA Labeling for Soap

So, I finally have my answer. The FDA Compliance Office says I can label my cosmetic soaps in one of two ways: either “AT FORMULATION” or “AT USE.”

“At Formulation” requires the listing of lye, either sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

“At Use” requires the use of the terms for the salts of the fatty acids that the oils become, for example, sodium cocoate, sodium palmitate.

Either customers have to be educated on the fact that lye reacts completely and is not present in the finished product, or that “chemical sounding names” are really just natural oils converted into soap.

I’m going with “At formulation.”

Any thoughts? Please send me your comments.

August 30th, 2010

Top 10 Soap Myths

The Myths we will debunk:

10. Body oils need to be removed in order to have clean skin.
9. The best soaps are pH balanced.
8. Antibacterial soap is better than regular soap.
7. Soap made with chemicals is bad for your skin.
6. If you can’t pronounce it, it shouldn’t go on your skin.
5. Lye soap is harsh.
4. Soap can be made without lye.
3. Castile soap is 100% olive oil.
2. Soap making is difficult and expensive.
1. Soap can’t be “all-natural” since it doesn’t exist in nature.

The Debunking Explanations:

Body Oils DO NOT need to be removed to have clean skin.

10. Clean skin doesn’t equal oil-free skin. Our bodies are constantly creating oils that help to clean pores, and guard against germs and dehydration. Using harsh cleansers that strip away natural oils is not necessary in order to be clean. The goal of skin cleansing, is to remove dirt and grime, sweat, and harmful bacteria.

pH  Balanced Soap is Not Necessary For Skin

9. Many soaps claim to be pH balanced implying that this is somehow beneficial to skin. pH is a scale used to describe the balance between acidity and alkalinity. Handcrafted soap is alkaline, generally having a pH somewhere between 8 and 10. Our bodies are generally more acidic on the outside, and more basic on the inside. One notable exception to this is the stomach, where harsh hydrochloric acid aids in digestion. pH varies from person to person, but in general, our skin is acidic. This helps to keep bacteria at appropriate levels. When we wash with soap, we temporarily remove some of this acidity, but the body quickly replaces it, and returns to its normal pH. Attempting to alter the pH of your skin is not only an exercise in futility, but is unnecessary. The body is designed to operate at the pH that occurs naturally. pH balancing soaps will not have a lasting effect on the pH of your skin.

However, we do know that when soap is first poured into a mold, it is highly alkaline. As it cures, the soap becomes less alkaline. Monitoring the change in pH can help determine whether the soap has cured adequately or not. There is such a range of pH’s, though, even in properly cured soap, that this is not an accurate or reliable measure of the gentleness of a soap. Those attributes are more affected by the choice of oils used.

Antibacterial Soaps are Unnecessary

8. Plain old soap and water is effective at removing surface dirt, grime and germs. This is because soap is a surfactant- a solution that lifts crud, bonds with it, and allows it to be rinsed away with water. Antibacterial soaps do this as well, but are also promoted as “germ killing.” To do this, the antibacterial agent must be in contact with bacteria for approximately 20 seconds to be effective. Unfortunately, many people do not wash this long, which potentially leads to bacteria with increased antibacterial resistance. There is also concern about the safety of some commonly used antibacterial agents (i.e. triclosan) because of their similarity to dioxins, and links to endocrine system disruption. Being an Ann Arbor native, I’ll share the following that I found on wikipedia: “A comprehensive analysis from the University of Michigan School of Public Health indicated that plain soaps are just as effective as consumer-grade antibacterial soaps with triclosan in preventing illness and removing bacteria from the hands.”

Do Not Steer Clear of Soaps Made With Chemicals

7. Soaps made from chemicals are unavoidable. Chemicals are just the universe’s building blocks! Every substance that exists is made of chemicals. It would be pointless to try to avoid them. A couple of common chemicals found on soap labels include sodium hydroxide (the alkaline necessary to turn oils into harmless soap), and sodium cocoate (coconut oil that has been turned into soap using sodium hydroxide). An especially important, and harmless chemical used to make real soap is dihydrogen monoxide, otherwise known as…water.

Unpronounceable Ingredients are Not Necessarily Bad

6. What about those unfamiliar, unpronounceable chemicals? Cymbopogon Schoenanthus oil? Azadirachta Indica oil? These are just two examples of hard to pronounce chemicals that are found on many natural soap labels. They are the International Nomenclature terms for lemongrass essential oil and neem seed oil. Hard To Pronounce does not equal Bad For You.

Lye Soap Can Be Amazingly Gentle on Skin

5. Properly made Lye soap is NOT harsh. Since all real soap is made with lye, then lye soap and real soap are one and the same. When properly formulated and allowed to cure, real soap is a gentle, mildly cleansing product. In a properly formulated recipe, a soapcrafter ensures that lye is the “limiting reagent.” When the lye is gone, the reaction is over. Some of us do this by “superfatting” our soaps. Additional oil is added to the formula to be absolutely sure that any trace of lye will be forced into reacting and creating soap. The unreacted oil remains in the soap as a conditioning agent.

Real Soap Cannot Be Made Without Lye

4. No lye= no soap. It’s as simple as that. Lye is necessary for soap making. Soap is oil that has been “Saponified.” Saponification, by definition, is the reaction of lye with fatty acids to produce the salts of the fatty acids (“soap”). Without lye, saponification doesn’t happen. Therefore, no lye, means no soap. Now, there are many products out there that can be used for cleaning that are not really soap, and were not made with lye. These products are most likely detergents- synthetic cleansers often made with petroleum products, and harsh cleaning agents. Originally lacking in natural glycerin, they must have moisturizers added in to make them more gentle for skin. You may find soapcrafters who claim to “make soap” without using lye. These folks don’t make soap from scratch, but instead rely on premade bases that they melt down and mold. This is called the “Melt and Pour” technique. Be assured, though, that the manufacturer of their base used lye, or the base is a synthetic detergent. All real soap is made with lye.

Castile Soap is Soap that Contains a Large Percentage of Olive Oil

3. The term “Castile Soap” was once used exclusively to describe soaps made only with lye and olive oil. However, modern usage of the word refers to pure olive oil soap, as well as soaps with a high proportion of olive oil in their formula.

Soap Making is Simple and Affordable

2. Making soap is actually quite simple and affordable. The process of making soap involves measuring, mixing, and pouring. Online “soap calculators” are available that can help to create recipes and ensure the correct amounts of ingredients are specified. The difficulty some people experience in making soap lies in the precision that is necessary in weighing ingredients and stirring to the correct consistency, in the formulating (it can be tricky to come up with a nice formula that makes a soap with the qualities you want), and also in the precaution that must be taken when handling corrosive lye and lye solutions. Depending on a person’s comfort level with laboratory or kitchen methods, and on their dedication to studying their craft, the technique of making soap can be mastered. I always advise that people read, read, and read some more before attempting their first batch. As far as expense, soap can be made with grocery store ingredients such as lard, Crisco, olive oil, castor oil (from the pharmacy area), and other oils found in the baking aisle of most food stores. Lye (usually sodium hydroxide) can be bought on line, and also in some hardware stores. It is important to use 100% PURE sodium hydroxide, with no other chemicals in it. The equipment needed to make a simple batch of soap can be as basic as a couple of pyrex bowls, a scale, a stainless steel spoon, a microwave, and a shoebox for a mold. Obviously, more serious endeavors into soapmaking will require more elaborate equipment, but it need not even be expensive equipment.

Soap Made With Natural Ingredients Should Be Called “Natural”

1. We believe soap made with only natural ingredients deserves to be called “natural.” While soap is not naturally occurring, (with the exception of perhaps soap-like compounds found in several species of the genus Saponaria), the reaction between lye and fatty acids happens naturally. There is no catalyst needed, other than the simple act of adding one ingredient to the other. The reaction proceeds on it’s own. If natural oils (olive, coconut, palm, etc) are used along with natural essential oils, natural fragrances made from isolated scent compounds, or botanicals (oatmeal, dried herbs), there is no reason to not feel comfortable calling the resulting soap “natural.”

August 22nd, 2010

Sustainable Palm Oil

Palm oil is under attack, and because I am devoted to knowing the truth behind things rather than just blindly supporting the anti-palm movement, I’ve been studying up on the topic. Here I present my reasons for coming to Palm’s defense.

Palm oil is used in soapmaking because it has a great ability to make hard bars of soap. One of the most common complaints of vegetable-oil based natural soap is that it tends to disappear quickly. The high glycerin content contributes to this, but so does the choice of oils a soapcrafter uses in their base formula. Other oils and fats can be used to create hardness, such as coconut oil, lard or tallow. Unfortunately, coconut oil, used in higher amounts, can be harsh and stripping, leaving skin dry and rough. Lard and tallow, being animals products, are contrary to many of my vegan soap buyers’ ethics, and are suspected of clogging pores.  hile I have made palm-free soaps, I generally prefer the formulas with palm.
When I first began hearing about the controversy concerning palm oil, I was a bit alarmed. I certainly didn’t want to lose business because of an ingredient I was using. I didn’t want to offend my customers by making bad decisions about the oils I had chosen. But, rather than eliminating palm from my soaps, I chose instead to research the issue, and make an educated decision based on my findings.
What I have learned is very interesting. Palm oil accounts for over 47 million tons of the world’s 144 million ton vegetable oil production. It is grown in 17 countries, and for 20% of its growers, it is their only source of income. The palm-oil tree itself, is actually a very environmentally-friendly plant. Growing to incredible heights, the fruit of the palm tree can be used to create everything from biofuel to cosmetics to food. Palm oil plantations require far less use of pesticides and fertilizers than soy plantations do. And, palm plants produce more edible oil per acre than any other vegetable oil source. This is good news for a growing global population. Palm also allows many countries that grow it to become players in the global economy. Small tribal villages rely on palm oil to sustain their families and provide financial resources that contribute to the building of schools, and creation of clean drinking water.
Unfortunately, the global demand for palm oil is huge, and growing. This has led many countries to destroy rainforests to make room for more palm plantations. This in turn, destroys the biologically-diverse rainforest, and the species that depend on it, including orangutans. When rainforests are cleared to make way for plantations, carbon from the rich peat bogs on the rainforest floor is released into the atmosphere. For these reasons, many people are choosing to boycott palm oil, and any products containing it.
But this is not an answer to the problem. Because of palm’s prevalence in so many products, and because the global demand is so high, little effect will be made by boycotting. The boycott would have to be tremendously large in scale to make a difference. Further, any reduction in palm oil use, would simply shift demand to another oil, and because of palm’s incredible versatility and economy, there really is not a better alternative.
Therefore, the solution lies in responsibly growing and using palm. Many of us in the soapmaking arena have signed petitions to use “Sustainable Palm.” By obtaining our palm from suppliers who can provide us with documentation that their palm is grown and produced in an environmentally responsible, sustainable way, we are doing our part to ensure that the palm we use is not contributing to rainforest destruction, orangutan obliteration and unnecessary carbon emissions.
I applaud and support the efforts of both GreenPalm.org and The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm (RSPO.org). I will continue to seek out sustainable palm oil, and use it to make my soaps. In doing so, I know that I am providing you with incredible handcrafted soap, and also helping to support people and communities that depend on palm production for their livelihoods.

*Thank you to GreenPalm.org for the palm oil statistics quoted in my article.

August 7th, 2010

What is Natural, Anyway?

Thought I’d share a new page I just added to our webstore!
Natural Cucumber Soap

Natural Cucumber Soap

Much discussion about the word “natural” appears on forums and blogs all over the internet. Misinformed folks claim there is no standard definition of the word, and therefore, that companies such as ours are using a word that is meaningless. Well, we like “Natural,” and therefore, will explain what we mean when we use it to describe our handcrafted bars of goodness! An educated consumer, is a happy consumer!

First off, we all agree that “Natural” means from nature. I think that’s a pretty basic truth. It’s the extent to which we use “natural” literally, however, that causes issues in the soap and cosmetic industry. Some argue that only things that come DIRECTLY from nature, without alteration of any kind, including washing, purifying, etc, would qualify as natural. With this line of thinking,  applesauce made by cooking apples and water would not be natural because applesauce does not exist on its own, in nature. Basically, anything that is “synthesized” or made, could not be considered  natural. But, this confuses the term Natural, with Naturally Occurring.

The Natural Bar Soap Company uses a more reasonable definition of Natural. We believe that if an ingredient has its origins in nature, it can be called natural. Therefore, Olive Oil? Natural. Palm Oil? Natural. Although these items need to be extracted by human means to be useful for making soap, they are, nonetheless, found in nature.

Some people like to point out that just because an ingredient is natural, it is not necessarily good. We wholeheartedly agree. Poison ivy would certainly not be a skin-friendly addition to our natural bars of goodness. Luckily, artisan soap crafters know which natural ingredients make good soap and which ones don’t. You don’t have to worry about finding poisonous plants in our all-natural soaps.

Likewise, the fact that something is not natural, and may be lab created, doesn’t make it bad, either. Tylenol, vaccinations, the internet, or even soap, for that matter, would not exist were it not for synthesis.

This naturally leads to a discussion of Natural Things Being Made Better through science. Some things found in nature are made even more safe and wonderful through purification processes. Just as the shea nut’s outer shell must be removed, and the contents filtered and cleaned to utilize the healthy shea butter within, so too must harmful contaminants be removed from things like Kaolin clay, and kelp powder. The cleaning process of these natural materials ensure their safety. While these materials do not exist in nature in their purified state, we do not believe that the fact that they have been cleaned up a bit in any way strips them of their “natural” status.

That’s basically where we stand. Ingredients that are natural in their origin, deserve to be called “natural,” even though they may be cleaned, purified, or even blended with other natural ingredients. To say that only things that exist naturally in the universe are “natural,” is a bit short sighted, to say the least.

July 18th, 2010

Natural Bar Soap- New!

Wanted to be sure to share these latest olive-oil soap additions to The Natural Bar Soap Company’s line up. They’ll be ready in about 4 weeks for sale and use.  Look for them at the store, and on our Facebook Company page!

Coconut Chocolate Swirl Soap

Coconut Chocolate Swirl Soap

As always, our soaps are made with all-natural ingredients! Why? Because we can! The range of colors and scents available in Mother Nature’s pantry is enough to spoil any dedicated soapcrafter!

Natural Cucumber Soap

Natural Cucumber Soap

And, because we like to experiment with ingredients, here’s a new bar that’s lots of fun! It’s colored with mica that is tinted with naturally-derived oxides.

Citrus Rainbow Swirl Soap

Citrus Rainbow Swirl Soap

So there you have ‘em! To reserve a bar of any of these natural soaps, or to even give me a “thumbs up,” please visit our facebook company page and post a comment.

I’m going off to make more soap!

:)

June 10th, 2010

Spiruwhat?

In my ongoing quest to use interesting, unique natural ingredients to make great soap, worthy of being bragged about, I often frequent the local health food store. This place is a treasure trove of good soap making stuff. On one of my last visits, I discovered Spirulina. Spiruwhat??

Spirulina is the common name for a particular blue-green algae that occurs naturally in tropical and subtropical areas. In its dry form, it is a very dark, fine green powder, although you will sometimes see it in tablet form.  It was used by the Aztec Empire as a food source, and is currently used worldwide as a food supplement. It is abundant in vitamins A, B, C, D and E, and is also especially high in protein (it’s actually a complete protein) and essential fatty acids. That’s quite a powerhouse of all-natural goodness!

What’s good for the body is generally good for the skin! I’m a firm believer that your skin needs to be treated to good stuff, just like your body does. And, I was looking for a soap additive that would produce a lasting green color. So, why not?

The results are amazing! Green colors that last are a rarity in the world of natural soap.  It’s been 4 weeks, and the color is about the same as it was after insulation.  The batter was  a bit more intense of a green color, but so far (knock on wood), my bars are still a nice, medium green.   You have to guess at how much to use- I could probably go lighter and have more of a cucumber-green color.

Chamomile Soap with Spirulina and Chamomile Blossoms

June 7th, 2010

ITP Swirl Soap

Wanting more distinct swirls with thinner ribbons of color, I’ve decided to try my hand at a new swirling technique for my natural soaps. I can’t believe how easy it was- and how dramatic the effect is! Check out this triple pour made with chocolate, cinnamon and bergamot.  It’ll be unmolded tomorrow and sliced. I’ll post pictures of the insides then. Here’s a picture of the pour:

Check out those sexy swirls!

Check out those sexy swirls!

***

Ok! It’s ready!! Here’s the reveal!

Neopolitan Swirl Soap

Neopolitan Swirl Soap

I’m so pleased with the results!!!! I posted an album on our Facebook Page with all my new soap (this is the only ITP swirl, but the others are quite pretty as well). Now, if anyone can suggest a blend of essential oils that will closely mimmick the scent of ice cream… It really does look good enough to eat, doesn’t it?

I feel like I’m on the edge of a vast new wilderness- untamed territory waiting to be explored.  The possibilities are endless! ITP swirls are without a doubt my new addiction!!!

June 3rd, 2010

How to Choose a Natural Soap

With the ever-growing popularity of all natural health care products, there are thousands of companies offering all-natural soaps.  Coupled with the immense popularity of the internet and the relative ease with which one can sell their products on line, there has really never been a better time, or more convenient way for the ingredient-conscious soap shopper to try out what’s available. Since every soap maker has their own specialties and preferences, there are certainly many choices available to consumers. Here, I present some useful considerations for the handmade soap shopper.

For starters, I prefer soaps made with vegetable oils rather than animal fats. Animal fats, often indicated by the word “tallow” or “sodium tallowate” on a label, can leave a film on the skin which clogs pores.  My skin is much happier with soaps made from vegetable oils such as olive, palm, and coconut. Olive creates an incredibly conditioning bar of soap. Palm lends hardness to the bar. Coconut is known for creating loads of lather and fluffy bubbles.

Coconut Oil Soap, with Palm and Olive

Luxury oils and butters can also be added for additional benefits, including antibacterial properties, anti-aging benefits, or intense moisturizing. Some luxury oils to look for include Shea Butter, Mango butter and Castor Oil.

Triple Buttercream Soap with Shea, Mango and Cocoa Butters

Often, people shop for natural soaps under the advice of a physician. Olive oil soaps are known for being very mild and gentle, and are commonly recommended for those with skin allergies. For these people, it is especially important to avoid soaps made with artificial Fragrance Oils. Generally less expensive than pure essential oils, many fragrance oils are completely synthetic, lab created scents available in many fun and good-smelling varieties. Unfortunately, they often cause irritation in those with skin allergies. Instead, choose a soap made with all natural Essential Oils or 100% Natural Fragrance oils. Often, you’ll have to rely on the honesty of the soapcrafter to tell you if their fragrances are natural or not. Natural fragrance oils are made with isolates. Isolates are scent compounds found in organic material, that are “isolated” by perfumiers (perfume chemists) and combined to form pleasant scents. Essential oils, on the other hand, are pure oils that have been extracted, pressed or distilled from plant material, that offer not only pleasing scents, but also all of the therapeutic benefits of that plant. For example, rosemary oil is known to be antibacterial, while lavender oil is known to have a relaxing effect.

All-Natural Lavender Euphoria Soap

For those people purchasing natural soaps for therapeutic effects,  look for soaps with natural botanicals, herbs and even spices in them. Oatmeal,   blueberry seeds and dried lavender buds are excellent exfoliators. They remove dry, dead skin, helping to expose healthy new skin instead. This is especially good for your complexion. The addition of kaolin clay, such as French Rose and Green Clay can help to absorb excess oil and impurities from your skin. And, as mentioned above, the selection of certain essential oils can also be therapeutic. For example, peppermint essential oil is particularly helpful for relieving the stuffy symptoms of a headcold.

A final thought concerning your decision to purchase natural soap- be sure you have a draining soap dish! Natural soap contains quite a bit of glycerin, which will “melt” out of the soap if it is kept in wet conditions. Truly natural soaps do not contain artificial hardeners, and are therefore softer than their commercial counterparts. It is important to allow them to dry between uses. I like to stand mine up on end when not in use. But, don’t worry if your bar does get wet and turns into a mushy lump. You can form it into a ball, squeeze some of the water out, and let it dry. After it has a chance to dry, it will be as good as ever, although a bit misshapen!

Beyond those suggestions, have some fun. Select something that sounds a bit interesting or unique. A lot of soapcrafters out there are pretty creative people, and you may discover that a soap that sounded odd turns out to be your new favorite. Finally, be sure to tell the artisan what you think of your selections once you use them. Most of them love to receive constructive criticism. If you have a suggestion for a new recipe, send them a note. Many are happy to custom make a soap loaf just for you. You may even end up seeing that new soap on their site!

May 12th, 2010

Top Ten Uses for Glycerin/Glycerine/Glycerol

10. Drug industry: manufacture of capsules and medications including throat lozenges and suppositories.

9. Food Industry: to moisten and keep pliable foods such as fondant, preserve and tenderize foods such as cakes and cookies, meats, candies, dry goods. Also used as a thickener and an emulsifier.

8. Cosmetic Industry: moisturizer for lip balms, lotions, deodorants, make-up, toothpastes and mouthwashes.

7. Paper Industry: reduces shrinkage during paper manufacture

6. Explosives Industry: for the manufacture of nitroglycerin and propellents.

5.  Medical Industry: to preserve biological specimens, including red blood cells and sperm.

4.  Plastics and Textiles Industry: for the manufacture of polyurethane foam, polyol flexible foams, and to coat fibers used in textiles.

3.  Coatings and Colorants Industry: stabilizes pigments and resins, used to manufacture printing inks. Also aids in the removal of mustard stains.

2. Auto Industry: to prevent freezing of windshields (antifreeze agent), and to prevent hydraulic brakes from freezing.

1.As a Naturally Occuring Humectant and moisturizer in Naturally Made Soap from The Natural Bar Soap Company.

May 12th, 2010

glycerin

I bet you already know that natural soap contains glycerin. It’s one of those little byproducts of saponification that “artisan soapcrafters” are particularly happy to brag about. (as in, “Commercial soap companies often remove the natural glycerin from their bars, and sell it to make lots of money, but WE keep it in ours, which means our soap is not only better, but more moisturizing, more natural, more everything!”).  But it really is something to brag about. This naturally occurring, moisturizing humectant goes by many names, including glycerin, glycerine, and glycerol. It is a naturally occurring, colorless, odorless (although, not tasteless) alcohol. In fact, glycerin has a sweetness comparable to sugar, yet contains no sugar. It is often used as a sweetener for people who cannot consume regular sugar, including diabetics and those suffering with Candida.

The amount of glycerin that is created in a bar of natural soap varies from about 6-16% of the total oils used in the recipe. I have yet to determine what creates this difference, but I suspect it has something to do with the oils used and their SAP values, the amount of lye used, and possibly even the type of lye (be in NaOH or KOH) used in the recipe. Recently, I created an experimental soap using honey and sugar, along with some other interesting ingredients, such as lactic acid, vitamin E and comfrey. This soap “bleeds” glycerin. I leave in propped on its side in the soap dish, and the glycerin absolutely oozes out, leaving a puddle of lovely moisturizing goo. I haven’t had this happen before. It’s a soft soap, most likely due to the high sugar content, but the glycerin is unusually abundant. It’s been fully cured for over a month, and is a wonderfully conditioning soap. I’ve been quite happy with the way my skin feels after using it. I’m just amazed by the amount of glycerin that comes out of it. I tried searching the web for explanations of what might be creating the excess glycerin, but so far, I am unable to find any solid explanation. If those commercial soap companies that extract and sell their glycerin only had my secret recipe…  :)

April 21st, 2010

Green Soap?

Finding just the right natural soap colorant is just a big old guessing game sometimes. Since cold process soap takes up to 4 weeks to fully cure, it may be quite a while before I get to see if my latest experiment resulted in the color I had my heart set on.

A good example is my latest addition of Rosemary Powder to a basic olive oil soap. I added about 1 T. to a 5 pound batch, and initially saw a pretty yellow green color. Three weeks later, the soap is almost fully cured- it’s gotten quite hard, the scent is wonderful (I used a peppermint essential oil and a bit of rosemary as well). But, the color is no longer the same green. It’s faded a bit, appearing almost beige, and although it’s attractively natural looking, it’s not very green. So, I’ve tried again today, this time with dried cucumber rind. The traced soap is a beautiful spring green. I’m crossing my fingers that the color will last. But, if it doesn’t, I’m already planning my next attempt, this time with parsley powder. They say the third time’s a charm!

February 6th, 2010

A History of Natural Soap

Tradition says that natural soap was first discovered at the base of Mt. Sapo, (Latin for soap), a legendary mountain used by the ancient Greeks for animal sacrifices. Wood ash and animal drippings were carried downstream by rivers to the base of the mountain. The combination of water, wood ash and animal fat resulted in loads of lathering suds with cleaning abilities. Although this explanation seems to reasonably explain the discovery of soap, the amount of fat the Greeks burned in animal sacrifices would be inadequate to produce soap. And, perhaps more importantly, evidence of the legendary Mt. Sapo has never been found.

The earliest known, written soap recipe is credited to the ancient Babylonians around 2800 BC, and was found inscribed on a clay tablet. Babylonia was a self-governing city in ancient Mesopotamia, between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers in modern day Iraq. Sometime before 2800 BC, ancient Babylonians discovered a process by which fats could be combined with wood ash and water to create a substance capable of cleaning. Babylonians used the Latin word sapo, which was borrowed from the Celtic word for soap, saipo. One can assume, then, that soap was not created by the Babylonians, although they certainly can be credited with preserving the recipe through their writings.

By 1500 BC, the Egyptian Ebers Papyrus was written, and contains an account of combining ash with cassia oil to create a topical treatment for the skin. Additionally, it is well documented that Egyptians regularly bathed. Interestingly, Cleopatra even used Shea Butter as part of her beauty regimen.

The ancient Greeks were known to bathe as well, although they did not use soap. They preferred to wash with water alone, scrape themselves clean with a strigil (a metal bladed implement), and anoint themselves afterwards with oils including  olive oil.

F ast forward a bit to 627 BC and the writings of the biblical prophet, Jeremiah. He mentions soap in chapter 2, verse 22, evidence again of soap’s existence in ancient times. In fact, soap is also mentioned in the book of Job, and in Malachi. However, the fullers soap from Malachi’s writings refer to a pretreatment for wool made mostly of urine- much unlike the ash and oil combination used for personal grooming!

Around 79 AD, Pliny the Elder, an academic from Pompeii and the writer of one of the most comprehensive encyclopedias of the ancient world, mentions a soap-like substance in his book Historia Naturalis. He credits the substance to the Gauls, and writes that it is made from tallow and ashes, for the purpose of making one’s hair shiny. Unfortunately, Pliny’s life was cut short by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvias, or he may have written more about soap for us.

Ancient Romans are perhaps the most well-known of antiquity’s bathers. All Romans, with the exception of slaves, used public baths. However, I have not found any references to soap in descriptions of their famous baths, although we do know they liked to anoint themselves with oil prior to leaving the bath for the day. Romans were particularly adventurous colonizers, and built baths in every locale they occupied, including England and Bulgaria. After the fall of the Roman Empire, personal hygiene seemed to take a back seat to personal preservation, as very few references to soap are found in the literature, although, the Greek physician, Galen, mentions cleansing with soap in a 200 AD writing.

By 1200 AD, soap making centers had emerged in Marseilles, France and Savona, Italy. In fact, the French word for soap is Savon. The Castille region of Spain was another well known soaping center, responsible for making the first hard, white bars of soap out of the region’s abundantly available olive oil. Castille Soap is still known today, and refers to soaps made with all, or mostly all, olive oil.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, the English monarchy sought to regulate soap production, and imposed high tariffs on soap. They went so far as to require soap molds to have padlocks, whose keys were held by the tax collectors! Eventually, the Victorian Era came around, and with it, a new interest in personal hygiene and germ control. This brought an end to the high soap taxes, allowing soap to be available and affordable to more people.

Two discoveries by French chemists Nicholas Leblanc and Michel Chevreul around the turn of the 19th century helped the progress of commercial soap making. In 1791, Leblanc patented a method of making lye from commonly available salt. In 1811, Chevreul discovered the chemistry behind the relationship of glycerin to fatty acids. With the advent of the industrial revolution, the stage was now set for mass soap production.

By the twentieth century, soap had become a commonly used, household necessity. Advances in chemistry spurred by war shortages of soap ingredients, notably oils, created the first detergents, or synthetic, non-soap cleansers. These synthetic products were cheap to produce, and led to advances in all sorts of cleaning related areas. Coldwater detergent, readily dissolving laundry detergent and concentrated detergents were all possible because of the discovery of synthetic ingredients. By the 1950′s, detergent sales had surpassed soap sales in the United States.

It seems, in an age devoted to finding alternatives to higher priced natural ingredients, we sometimes lose sight of our original intentions. Naturally made soap, with its high concentration of moisturizing oils is better for the skin than harsh detergents. Naturally made soap contains valuable glycerin, and is quite unlike synthetic moisturizers found in many mass produced detergent bars that do nothing to moisturize, but merely seal the skin, restricting air flow and clogging pores.

Thankfully, the 21st century has marked a return to natural products and a re-enlightenment concerning the benefits of naturally occurring oils and butters in our cleaning products. This is evident in little boutiques as well as our grocery stores. A desire to use natural ingredients with a focus on health and well being has become the driving force behind many fledgling businesses in the skin-care product arena. People are beginning to understand that natural products are beneficial, even though they may cost a bit more than their mass-produced counterparts. It’s a perfect time in history to use the chemistry of modern days, the abundance of natural materials and an old-world technique, to once again create skin-friendly soaps with attributes that just can’t be found in synthetic detergents.

January 10th, 2010

Herbal Dermathetics

Dermathetics are so abundant that artisan soapcrafters should never have a need to use synthetic exfoliants, colorants or lab-synthesized additives in their handmade soaps. Dermathetics not only add wonderful, skin-benefitting qualities to your soaps, but can also provide natural colors, fragrances and exfoliating ability. By definition, a dermathetic is a soap additive used to contribute skin-sympathetic attributes. For the natural soapmaker, the most commonly used dermathetics are herbs.

Herbs can be added to soap in many ways. If you do not wish to contribute any exfoliating properties to your soap, but are only interested in the active compounds in your herbs, or in the color the herb will lend to the soap, use an infusion of the plant in oil.

Select one of the oils that will be used in your soap recipe. Weigh out the appropriate amount in a mason jar. I generally add about 1 t. to 1 T. herbs per pound of oils in the total recipe, depending on the depth of color I’m aiming for. Allow the mixture to sit for a week or more. The resulting herb-infused oil can be mixed with the other oils in your recipe when you’re ready to make soap. Try using tomato powder to lend powerful antioxidants and a reddish/orange color to your soap. Rosemary powder also adds antioxidants, but yields a light beige to camel color.

Herbs can also be used in powdered form and added at trace during the soapmaking process. Some powdered herbs, such as pulverized thyme, are notorious for clumping in soap batter. For herbs that are prone to this, first make a slurry of the powder with glycerin or a bit of an oil you’ve already weighed out for your recipe. Make your slurry with about a 1 to 1 ratio, adding more liquid as necessary to break up the clumps into a homogenous mixture. Then, simply add the slurry at trace.

Another fun way to use herbal dermathetics is for their exfoliating ability. In this case, you’ll be adding crushed dried leaves, flowers or seeds at trace. The only real considerations here are aesthetic, and how much exfoliating power you’re interested in. Blueberry seeds are wonderful little natural exfoliators, and can be added with no preparation, during trace. Try a rate of 1t-1T. per 5 lb. batch of soap. Course flakes of herbs, on the other hand, do not always feel good rubbing against the skin, and for that reason, I like to grind most dried herb leaves in my food processor to reduce the size a bit. It’s really a matter of personal preference. I like to be able to see the herbs in my soap, but I don’t want them to give me splinters! Be particularly careful if your dried herbs contain stems, as these can be especially sharp and hard.

For a pretty touch, whole flowers can be added to soap batter in the same way. While the colors and fragrances won’t necessarily survive saponification, I’ve found that lavender buds and chopped chamomile flowers, can impart a bit of their natural fragrance to my finished soap, along with muted variations of their original colors. Natural Bar Soap Company’s Eucalyptus and Chamomile Soap, and Lavender and Olive Oil Soap both use whole flowers for a bit of natural scent and color, as well as a fun, scrubby texture.

January 4th, 2010

The Lye about Natural Soap

I have definitely had my share of college chemistry classes and labs. For four years, I donned safety goggles and a lab coat, and delighted in mixing, measuring… using dangerous chemicals that were capable of eating my skin and making me blind. Funny, looking back on it, how similar chemistry lab in college is to soap making in our Soap-Shop!

Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Hydroxide are strong bases, or alkalis. Each has been referred to as Lye, although in modern times, the name is more often used for Sodium Hydroxide. Lye is a powerful caustic used in drain-cleaning products like Drano. But, it’s also the primary chemical needed to make soap.

Our ancestors made soap using lye, but they obtained it from wood ashes. Now, thanks to the industrial revolution and advances in chemistry, we can purchase lye in granular form, and forget dirty old wood ash. But, it’s essentially the same caustic chemical, just purified and mass produced. You can be assured though, in a properly formulated and prepared batch of soap, highly corrosive lye will become completely harmless. In fact, lye can be used to craft a beautifully gentle bar of soap.

To make soap, Lye is first mixed with water, and then poured into a melted mixture of natural oils. The lye causes the chemical structure of the esters in each oil to break, which releases fatty acids and glycerol. The lye is completely gone once reacted with enough oil. Most recipes even include excess oil, a step known as “Superfatting.” This ensures there is more than enough oil necessary to “use up” the lye, and leaves additional, non-reacted oil in the soap for more moisturizing qualities.

The Lye Soap we hear of our ancestors using was made with lye, just as soap is made today. Believe it or not, Lye Soap is actually more conditioning, moisturizing and cleansing than many commercially made soaps you’ll find in your local grocery store. In our time, the name Lye Soap has fallen from favor, and become replaced with the more gentle term, “Natural Soap.”

In our ancestors time, the primary oils used to make soap would likely have been lard, animal fats and shortenings. Modern day soaps, on the other hand, more often use vegetable-based ingredients like coconut oil and luxurious ingredients such as Shea Butter to create richly conditioning soaps. But, one ingredient remains the same. Lye.

Can’t soap be made without the use of Lye? Not real soap. Real soap is “saponified” oil. To make real soap, strong bases must break oils into fatty acids and glycerol (or glycerin). This process is called Saponification, and it requires the use of lye.  So, Lye=Soap.  No Lye=No soap.

Naturally made Soap can leave your skin not only clean, but moisturized, conditioned and soft. Natural soaps don’t contain overly cleansing and drying detergents, or synthetic cleaners. Natural Soaps can be formulated to help with acne, sunburn, or sensitive skin. Natural Soaps can be custom made to have the scents, colors and qualities you desire. Pretty amazing, considering that it all happens because of a caustic chemical known as Lye.